Astoria: Columbia, Chinook, and Cinema
- Roger Allen Burns
- Apr 9
- 7 min read
Nestled at the mouth of the Columbia River, Astoria, Oregon, is one of those places that just oozes history and charm. It’s got the salty air of a hardworking port town, the backdrop for an artist’s canvas, and scenery that makes you want to sit with a cup of coffee and just stare for a while. If you like your travels with a side of backstory, Astoria delivers.
We have visited here before, albeit briefly, as we made our way to points south in Oregon. We’ve traveled through at least five or six times. However, we’ve never driven here with the intention of visiting Astoria. But we finally made that choice, and we are glad we did. Our visit to Astoria was in the company of our dear friends of over 35+ years, Dave and Christine Ham, who came to visit us from New Hampshire. It was great fun to spend time with them on the adventure and to hear their insights into the Pacific Northwest.
The Columbia River Maritime Museum
Astoria’s breathtaking landscapes and historical significance center around its place along the Columbia River. Just ten miles downstream, at the mouth of the Columbia, is the harrowing place where the mighty Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean have a collision course. And the best place to learn about the confluence is the maritime museum, our first stop in Astoria (unless you count our first stop as pulling over to watch a Coast Guard helicopter do rescue training on the river).
If you really want to dive into Astoria’s rich maritime history, a stop at the Columbia River Maritime Museum is a must. We must admit, we have driven by this museum many times, but didn’t realize how interesting it would be to visit. Hats off to the Ham’s for suggesting we visit. This isn’t a collection of dusty artifacts—it’s an immersive experience that tells the story of the treacherous and unpredictable waters where the Columbia River collides with the Pacific Ocean.
The Columbia is the fourth largest river in the USA and the largest river that empties into the Pacific. The river looks deceivingly calm and peaceful. But it’s no gentle emptying of fresh water into salt. It’s a chaotic collision earning the moniker “the Graveyard of the Pacific.”
The mouth of the Columbia River, known as the Columbia Bar, is one of the most dangerous waterways in the world to navigate. Its treacherous conditions—caused by the collision of powerful river currents with ocean tides, shifting sandbars, and unpredictable weather are what give it its nickname. Over 2,000 vessels have been lost in this area, giving testimony to its reputation. Upon entering the museum, one sees a display showing the location of numerous shipwrecks. It is upon this turbulent truth which the museum tells its story. We must admit, we see the Columbia River frequently while living in Washington, but we had no idea the river’s mouth is known as the Graveyard of the Pacific. The stories of rescues and wreckage add an undeniable mystique to Astoria’s coastal charm.
A showcase of the museum is the life-size, real 44-foot Coast Guard rescue boat. It depicts a crew and vessel rescue operation navigating rough waves at a 45-degree angle.
Yet the Columbia Bar isn’t all danger—it’s also a testament to human ingenuity. Columbia River Bar Pilots, among the most elite mariners in the world, play an important role in navigating these perilous waters, showcasing skill and bravery.
The museum maintains the Lightship Columbia, a floating lighthouse that once guided ships safely past the deadly river bar. We boarded the ship as part of the museum admission. The Lightship Columbia served as a floating lighthouse at the mouth of the Columbia River from 1951 to 1979. The ship was essentially a small, self-sufficient town with a crew of 17 anchored 5 miles out to sea. It featured a powerful 1,200-watt light visible up to 13 nautical miles and a diaphone foghorn that could be heard 5 miles away. Imagine being a crewmember trying to get some sleep when the foghorn was blowing! It’s a fascinating glimpse into the lives of those who braved these waters, and it gives an appreciation for the maritime roots that still define Astoria today.
That Bridge, Though
Another aspect of the Columbia is to travel across the river from Oregon to Washington. When driving through Astoria, you can’t miss the behemoth Astoria-Megler Bridge. It is nothing short of stunning. If you want to swim from Astoria to the nearest point in Washington State, Ellice Point, you would be a bit exhausted because it is a four-mile span. Thus, the monster of a structure makes the commute easy as it stretches impressively the entire 4.1 miles across the Columbia. When it opened in 1966, it was the longest continuous truss bridge in North America—and it still holds that title. When going from Astoria, Oregon and heading north to Megler, Washington, the bridge takes a steep ascent, and it feels like taking off in an airplane into the sky. If you’re afraid of heights, just keep your eyes on the road. If you love a good view, try to sneak a glance at the massive cargo ships (we counted six) navigating the treacherous Columbia Bar below. The first mile of the bridge is a steep hump which rises to around 200 feet above the surface of the water and back down again. After the hump, the roadway is a modest 25 foot clearance above the water surface and continues at that height for about three miles. On the latter section, you can see the river sand bars which hinder maritime navigation. After crossing the bridge into Washington, we returned to Astoria to continue our adventure. Incidentally, the bridge is part of the famous US Route 101 roadway.
A Canning Legacy
Long before Astoria became a magnet for tourists and Hollywood filmmakers (more on that later), it was the salmon-canning capital of the world. In the late 1800s, this little town was bustling with canneries that packed and shipped Columbia River salmon far and wide. At its peak, there were more than 30 canneries along the waterfront, employing thousands of workers, many of whom were immigrants from China, Finland, and Scandinavia. While the industry eventually declined due to overfishing and changing markets, the town’s maritime heritage is still alive and well.
On the east end of Astoria, you can visit the Hanthorn Cannery Museum. It is located on Pier 39, over the water at the end of 39th Street. It is well worth the visit even if it is only to drive out onto the pier and hear the boards rattle underneath the vehicle tires. You can park on the pier and visit a few shops and get a good view of the river. There is no museum admission fee as it’s not much of a museum. It’s more a collection of pictures, placards, and artifacts that takes about 10-15 minutes to walk through. It’s fascinating to see the old pictures and imagine what it was like to be present when the canning was going full-tilt.
At the end of the pier, we soaked in the sweeping view of the Columbia with its flotilla of cargo ships. We also heard the barking and caught a glimpse of sea lions lounging on the nearby docks. The pier provides a wonderful sensory experience of smell, sight, sound with the feel of the gentle breeze.
Movies and History
Although we didn’t do anything Hollywood while in Astoria, no blog post is complete without a nod to Astoria’s pop culture fame. It’s a great place for a movie backdrop. While The Goonies gets most of the attention, other classics like Kindergarten Cop and Free Willy were also filmed here. Fans of Arnold Schwarzenegger’s undercover teacher role can visit the real elementary school used in Kindergarten Cop. And for those who remember Free Willy, parts of the film captured the beauty of the Astoria waterfront and surrounding areas.
For history buffs, which is more the lane we travel, it’s fun to sit on the shore and imagine the small flotilla of boats bringing the “Corps of Discovery” on their way to the mighty Pacific. Imagine Captain William Clark writing in his journal in 1805, "Ocian in view! O! the joy."
Astoria is also home to many immigrants. We walked through Astoria Nordic Heritage Park which celebrates the contributions of Scandinavian and Nordic immigrants to the region. The small plaza features flags, sculptures, and other elements honoring Nordic traditions. The park has special significance for the Ham’s because their son, Nathan, lives in Helsinki, Finland with his wife Katarina and their son Logan.
Fishing at Buoy 10
One of the things Allen would love to do someday is fish at Buoy 10, a spot legendary among anglers for its incredible salmon runs. A replica of the buoy is in the maritime museum. The buoy signifies the end of the fishing line for those navigating the Columbia estuary. Located where the Columbia River meets the Pacific, this area is famous for producing some of the best salmon fishing in the country. Every summer, fishermen flock here in pursuit of Chinook and Coho salmon, braving the swift currents and unpredictable waters for the chance to reel in a trophy fish. It’s a bucket-list experience for any serious fisherman, and one he hopes to check off someday.
Final Thoughts
Astoria is a town that embraces its past while still feeling vibrant and fresh. Whether you’re here for the history, the stunning views, or just passing through, it’s a spot that sticks to your mind’s eye with a lasting impression. And hey, if you do nothing else, at least take a drive across that incredible bridge—it’s worth the drive. And, by the way, it’s a free ride because the toll was removed in 1993.
Our best memory of Astoria will be that of having our friends, Dave and Christine, along for the ride. Hopefully, we can plan another adventure with them in the future.